Security test
Relax your hand, then tighten briefly as if contacting the shuttle. The handle should stay stable without constant squeezing.
Grip size comparison
G4 vs G5 vs G6 Badminton Grip Sizes
Compare G4, G5 and G6 badminton grip sizes side by side, then choose the best starting handle for your hand, playing style and overgrip setup.
- Reading time
- 13 minutes
- Updated
- Category
- Grip size comparison
Grip Size Calculator
Turn the comparison into one starting setup
Answer a few questions about your hand, current grip and preferred finished feel.
G4 gripFuller from the start
Choose when a G5 with a normal overgrip still feels too small and finger movement remains free.
G5 gripBest default
Choose when you want a practical factory size with room for one controlled adjustment.
G6 gripSlimmest and most adjustable
Choose when you deliberately want a slim base or maximum flexibility for custom build-up.
G4 vs G5 vs G6 at a glance
Use this as a buying filter. It assumes each racket has a factory grip. Once an overgrip or replacement grip is added, the finished feel may move away from the G code.
| Grip size | Relative size | Typical users | Pros | Cons | Easy to customize? | Starting recommendation |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| G4 | Largest of these three | Players with larger hands or a proven preference for a full handle | Stable, substantial and secure when it fits | Least room to reduce; can limit finger movement | Limited—the base already starts large | Choose only when G5-based setups remain too small |
| G5 | Middle of these three | Many recreational players, beginners and first serious-racket buyers | Balanced security, finger access and overgrip flexibility | May still be too full for small hands or too slim for a strong full-grip preference | Good—works factory-fitted or with one controlled layer | Default choice when preference is unknown |
| G6 | Smallest of these three | Small hands, slim-grip users and players who build handles deliberately | Maximum finger freedom and build-up range | Can twist or encourage squeezing when left too slim | Highest—easy to enlarge gradually | Choose when G5 restricts movement or customization is intentional |
Movement test
Change between forehand, backhand and bevel positions. A grip is too full if the handle resists normal finger movement.
Repeatability test
Check drives and full swings after your hand is warm. Shop-floor comfort alone does not show late-session security.
Choose G4, G5 or G6 by hand size
Hand size is a starting clue, not a final conversion. Palm shape, finger length, grip pressure, technique and the wrap all affect the best finished handle. Avoid universal hand-length cutoffs that pretend every brand and player fits one measurement.
| Hand fit | Compare first | Choose when | Reject when |
|---|---|---|---|
| Small hands | G6 vs G5 | G6 remains secure with a light hold, or G5 blocks finger movement | G6 twists during contact or requires constant squeezing |
| Medium hands | G5 | Grip changes remain easy and one optional overgrip gives enough security | The bare setup feels bulky or a wrapped setup still feels unstable |
| Large hands | G5 vs G4 | G4 feels planted without forcing fingers apart, or G5 plus one overgrip remains too small | G4 slows changes or G5 already feels secure and mobile |
Small hands: start with G6 or G5
G6 preserves finger access, but smaller is not automatically better. If the racket rotates or requires constant squeezing, test G5 or add one thin layer. The target is relaxed control, not the smallest code.
Medium hands: start with G5
G5 works near factory size or with gradual build-up. If it feels slightly slim, one overgrip is a reversible experiment. If it already feels full, compare G6.
Large hands: compare G5 with G4
First test whether G5 with a normal overgrip provides stability without restricting finger movement. Choose G4 when that build remains insecure and the larger base does not slow grip changes.
Choose by playing style
Playing style should separate two comfortable sizes, not rescue an uncomfortable one. Grip size does not directly create power or control. It changes how easily you relax, move the fingers, position the racket face and tighten briefly at contact.
| Priority | Starting direction | Why | Warning sign |
|---|---|---|---|
| Singles | G5 or a medium finished build | A neutral grip can remain secure through full-court rallies without limiting changes | Late-session squeezing or difficulty moving between grip positions |
| Doubles | G5 or a carefully built G6 | A slim-to-medium setup can support drives, blocks and rapid finger changes | Racket twisting during rushed contact or sweaty defense |
| Attack | Secure medium build, often G5-based | Stability matters, but finger tightening must remain available for clean acceleration | Choosing G4 because a larger handle feels powerful in the hand |
| Control | Slim to medium | Clear bevel feedback can help small racket-face adjustments | The handle becomes unstable during full swings |
| Comfort | The size that permits the lightest reliable hold | Reduced unnecessary pressure matters more than the label | Numbness, pain or constant clamping |
Fast exchanges favor freedom
Doubles drives and defensive blocks reward fast grip changes. That can point toward G5 or G6, but only while the racket remains stable during rushed contact. A handle that rotates wastes the speed advantage.
Full swings still need finger action
A fuller G4 grip may feel secure, yet too much thickness can reduce the brief finger tightening that supports efficient acceleration. Attackers should test recovery and repeat swings, not judge one comfortable hold.
Overgrip changes everything
The G code describes the racket's base option, not the complete handle your hand feels. Factory grip, replacement grip, overgrip thickness, overlap, wrapping tension and butt-cap build combine into the finished size. This is why G5 plus an overgrip can be a better decision than buying G4.
| Starting grip | Common adjustment | Why it can work | Main trade-off |
|---|---|---|---|
| G4 | Keep the factory surface or use only the thinnest required wrap | The handle already provides a full base | Very little room before the finished grip becomes bulky |
| G5 | Use factory grip alone or add one overgrip | Offers a reversible path from medium toward fuller | A thick or heavily overlapped wrap can erase finger freedom |
| G6 | Add one controlled layer, then reassess | Provides the widest build-up range and lets the player tune the result | Several layers can soften bevels and add noticeable handle weight |
Why G6 is easiest to adjust
G6 starts with the most room for build-up. A player can add a thin wrap, test security, then add or replace material deliberately. That flexibility is valuable for small hands and custom setups, but it is not automatically efficient if several layers are required from the first day.
Overgrip versus replacement grip
An overgrip is normally a thin, replaceable surface layer applied over an existing base. A replacement grip is intended to replace the base grip and can change cushioning and finished thickness more substantially. Confusing them makes a badminton grip-size comparison unreliable because “one grip” may describe very different material.
Grip layers also affect racket balance
Material added at the handle increases handle-side mass and can make the complete racket feel less head heavy. The effect may be small with one thin layer but more noticeable with a large build. Record both the G code and the complete wrap when comparing rackets or using the Racket Balance Calculator.
Common G4, G5 and G6 comparison mistakes
- 1. Buying too large.
A full handle may feel secure for ten seconds but restrict finger movement during fast rallies.
- 2. Ignoring overgrips.
The layer you actually use can move a suitable base into an overly bulky finished setup.
- 3. Copying professionals.
Professional handle builds may include customized layers, removed factory grips or shaped butt caps.
- 4. Choosing only by hand size.
Finger movement, palm shape, grip pressure and technique can change the result.
- 5. Confusing factory and replacement grips.
They can differ substantially in purpose, cushioning and thickness.
- 6. Assuming every brand matches.
G labels, available combinations and finished grips may vary by model and market.
- 7. Choosing G4 for power.
A larger handle does not manufacture power and may reduce useful finger acceleration.
- 8. Choosing G6 for speed.
A slim handle that twists or demands squeezing does not create usable racket speed.
- 9. Comparing worn and new grips.
A compressed, slippery surface can feel thinner and less secure than the same original setup.
- 10. Adding several layers at once.
Change one layer so you know whether security, comfort and grip mobility improved.
- 11. Ignoring bevel definition.
Thick overlapping wraps can make racket-face positioning less clear even when circumference feels comfortable.
- 12. Forgetting balance changes.
Extra handle weight can change the way the complete racket swings and recovers.
Final recommendation
Start with G5 unless you already know your preference. When two sizes both seem workable, choose the smaller base and build up gradually because that decision remains reversible.
Choose G4
You have a proven full-grip preference
- G5 with one normal overgrip remains insecure.
- Finger movement stays easy on the larger base.
- You need little future build-up.
Do not choose it when: grip changes or defense already feel restricted.
Choose G5
You want the safest general starting point
- You have no reliable previous preference.
- You want factory or one-overgrip flexibility.
- You value balanced security and finger access.
Do not choose it when: even the thinnest build feels bulky or blocks movement.
Choose G6
You want a slim or highly adjustable base
- You have small hands or prefer a slim handle.
- You value fast, clear finger movement.
- You will build the grip one layer at a time.
Do not choose it when: several layers are immediately required for basic security.
Grip Size Calculator
Turn G4 vs G5 vs G6 into your next setup
The calculator combines hand fit, current grip, playing preference and overgrip use.
G4 vs G5 vs G6 badminton grip questions
What is the main difference between a G4 grip and a G5 grip?
Within product ranges that offer both, G4 is generally the larger bare handle and G5 is smaller. The finished difference depends on the factory grip, overgrip and wrapping method. Compare official specifications for the exact racket because availability and finished feel vary by brand, model and market.
What is the main difference between a G5 grip and a G6 grip?
G6 is generally the smaller base when both codes are available. G5 starts closer to a medium recreational setup, while G6 leaves more room for custom build-up. A wrapped G6 can become fuller, but it will not necessarily feel identical to a factory G5.
Is G5 the best badminton grip size for most players?
G5 is the safest starting recommendation for many recreational players because it is neither the largest nor the smallest common option and can be enlarged with an overgrip. It is not universally best: small hands may prefer G6, while a proven preference for a full handle may justify G4.
Should beginners choose G4, G5 or G6?
Most beginners should compare G5 first. It offers a useful middle reference and reversible adjustment. Choose G6 when G5 restricts finger movement or when a slim custom build is intentional. Choose G4 only when a G5-based setup remains too small.
Is G4 suitable for large hands?
It can be, but hand size alone is not enough. A large-handed player may still prefer G5 for finger movement and grip changes. Try G5 with one normal overgrip before committing to G4 if both options are available.
Is G6 only for children or players with very small hands?
No. G6 can suit adults who prefer a slim handle, clear bevel feedback or maximum build-up flexibility. It becomes unsuitable when the player must squeeze continuously or add so many layers that the handle loses shape and consistency.
Can I make a G5 grip feel like G4 with an overgrip?
You can make G5 fuller, sometimes close to the feel you associate with a larger handle. It does not become an official G4, and the result depends on overgrip thickness, overlap, tension and factory grip. The build may also feel softer and less sharply beveled.
Can I make a G6 grip feel like G5?
Often you can build a G6 toward a medium finished size with a controlled grip layer. The result remains a customized G6 rather than a factory G5. Recheck security, bevel definition and handle weight after each layer.
Can I make a G4 grip smaller?
Only to a limited extent. Removing a thick factory or replacement grip and using a thinner surface can reduce the finished size, but the underlying wooden handle remains large. This is why buying smaller and building up is usually the more flexible direction.
Which grip size is better for doubles, G5 or G6?
Both can work. G5 is the safer general choice, while G6 may support quick finger changes for players who deliberately prefer a slimmer build. Choose the smallest finished setup that remains secure during drives, blocks and sweaty defensive exchanges.
Which grip size is better for singles, G4 or G5?
Singles does not require a large grip. G5 is a neutral starting point because it balances security and grip mobility. G4 is appropriate only when its fuller feel remains comfortable through long rallies and does not restrict changes between forehand, backhand and bevel grips.
Do Yonex and Victor G4, G5 and G6 grips feel the same?
Do not assume so. Both brands publish G-coded specifications, but factory grip material, handle shape, regional version and available weight-and-grip combinations can differ. Compare the exact official product listings and the finished handles where possible.
How do Li-Ning grip sizes compare with G4, G5 and G6?
Li-Ning labels and regional offerings should be checked on the exact official or authorized-market product listing. Avoid a universal conversion from an unsourced chart. Compare the finished handle rather than translating a code from memory.
Can the wrong grip size cause hand or wrist pain?
An unsuitable finished size or constant squeezing can contribute to fatigue and discomfort, but pain can have several causes, including technique and workload. Stop aggravating play and seek qualified medical advice when symptoms are persistent, severe or worsening.
How should I test G4 vs G5 vs G6 before buying?
Use the same relaxed grip on each, change between forehand and backhand positions, simulate drives and full swings, and check whether brief tightening keeps the racket secure. Compare equivalent grip surfaces where possible; a worn or unusually thick wrap can distort the result.
References
- 2026 Badminton CatalogOfficial
Yonex
Official catalog showing model-specific badminton weight and grip combinations, including G4, G5 and G6.
- ARCSABER racket specificationsOfficial
Yonex
Official product-family example showing grip availability can change with model and weight class.
Victor
Official manufacturer explanation of G4, G5 and G6 as relative badminton handle sizes.
- HYPERNANO X 900X specificationsOfficial
Victor
Official product example listing different grip options by racket weight class.
- Li-Ning official websiteOfficial
Li-Ning
Official manufacturer source; verify the grip label for the exact model and sales market.
Badminton World Federation
Official equipment rules; they do not prescribe a personal badminton grip size.
USRSA
Professional racket-service education and technical reference organization.
Related equipment decisions
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Related calculators
Update history
- v1
Initial Grip Topic comparison guide
- Added G4/G5/G6 comparison, hand-fit and playing-style tables, overgrip decisions, 12 common mistakes and 15 FAQs.
Grip Size Calculator
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